My own recording room!!!

Posted on

Member Since: Dec 05, 2004

My parents just baught a big house and they said that i could use the third garage as a recording studio! I wasnt planning on doing any changes to my recording room as not to screw anything up, but now that I can have an isolated music room, im not sure what i should do to make it as recording friendly as possible. Does anybody have any suggestions for me?

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Member
Member
Since: Nov 28, 2004


Dec 29, 2004 07:26 pm

you lucky bastard

Administrator
Since: Apr 03, 2002


Dec 29, 2004 07:50 pm

Is it sheetrocked and insulated? If not, there is step one. Does it have a good electrical source? If not, there is step two.

Member
Since: Dec 05, 2004


Dec 29, 2004 08:09 pm

Yes, its both sheetrocked and insulated. Good electrical source as well. Its a brand new house so i dont have to worry about bad electrical and things like that.

Administrator
Since: Apr 03, 2002


Dec 29, 2004 08:54 pm

Sometimes garages are overlooked a little bit, but cool, got that covered. Now it's time to acquire absorbant material...quilts, heavy blankets, chairs, sofas, office cubical walls, things like that to spread around the room. Or, perhaps build a few of these www.homerecordingconnecti...story&id=50 to hang around the area. I have four of them and they work great to help tune a room. Maybe some bookshelves or something at angles in corners to prevent bass accentuation...

Member
Since: Dec 05, 2004


Dec 29, 2004 09:07 pm

My dad also suggested that i hang up foam cones. He said theyre really good for cancelling sound. Said you could hear yourself think...said its kinda creepy. Can you make these yourself?

Administrator
Since: Apr 03, 2002


Dec 29, 2004 10:06 pm

I dunno what you mean by "sound cones", but I will tell you this, you do not want to completely deaden the room to a creepy degree (and yes, I know what he means by creepy, it can be so dead you can audibly hear your heart beat). You want some reflecting and some absorbing surfaces, also, tossed in for good measure you want some dispersing surfaces, something that will bounce the sound in all different directions. Book shelves full of books are good for that. What I plan to do in my studio now that I am starting to finish it off properly is have some frames that have 4x4 beams cut from end to end at an angle screwed into it so it's a jagged surface, when sound hits it it won't bounce straight back, it'll bounce off at a 45 degree angle...

Ex-Wookie
Member
Since: Aug 29, 2003


Dec 29, 2004 11:31 pm

www.johnlsayers.com

best thing you can do for your studio. he pesonaly answers most if not all questions on his message boards.

Member
Since: Dec 05, 2004


Dec 30, 2004 12:37 am

cool. Yeah i just found out that he ran cat5 out there too so now i can have internet. The only problem i see is that since i live out here in az, it gets really hot in the summer (upwards of 110 degrees) and the garage isnt air conditioned. Wouldnt this be a problem? I was thinking of using a swamp cooler. would this create condensation and mess up my gear?

Czar of Midi
Administrator
Since: Apr 04, 2002


Dec 30, 2004 12:44 am

Swamp cooler and a dehumidifier. But your gonna get some noise with that going on as well.

Member
Since: Dec 05, 2004


Dec 30, 2004 12:46 am

SHOOT! Forgot about that...

Member
Since: Dec 05, 2004


Dec 30, 2004 12:47 am

Could i just bite the bullet and record in the heat or will it mess with the equipment?

Member
Since: Jan 08, 2003


Dec 30, 2004 09:38 am

John Sayers is good, if you talk to him, say Hi from Waldo ;)

W.

Chief Cook and Bottle Washer
Member
Since: May 10, 2002


Dec 30, 2004 02:13 pm

Another nice material is suspended ceiling tile. I don't use them per their design. I have them stretegicly spanning corners, here and there to dampen hot spots. Put some R13 behind one spanning a corner and the make a pretty good base trap. Perferated vinal front. $20.00 will get you a box of the little buggers. Lightweight, easy to suspend with even just finish nails. Not perfection, but still nice material to play with.

Member
Since: Dec 05, 2004


Dec 30, 2004 02:52 pm

yea i just posted a thread on his site...well see wat they suggest.

Member
Since: Dec 05, 2004


Dec 30, 2004 02:53 pm

cause thatd be bad if stuff starts to melt or something...

Administrator
Since: Apr 03, 2002


Dec 30, 2004 03:14 pm

Actually, Walt, those sound control panels that I linked to an article on how to build, I actually have one of those hanging from my ceiling right over my head, it works well there too.

Regarding heat, well, moisture is your worst enemy, I suppose extreme heat would be the second...you can shut that stuff off while recording, but be sure to keep it on at all other times. And if you have it well insulated and sheetrocked it'll heat and cool pretty efficiently.

In real pro studios they often have an insulated and sheetrocked (double sheetrocked actually) main building, and leav a 4 inch gap and build another insulated and double sheetrocked wall. That is the ultimate sound proofing, and in addition, it's heats and cools for pennies instead of dollars.

Hello!
Member
Since: Jan 12, 2004


Dec 30, 2004 04:41 pm

Aha...dB - can I clarify that (just to jump on the post) but still related.

If I wanted to insulate and sound proof some rooms (affordably!) I could just build me a big old room (from sheetrock with wood panels i.e. a stud partition wall) then leave a wee 4inch gap and do the same again building me a room, in a room, sheetrocked like this:

FACING BOARD {STRUCTURE} OUTER BOARD then the same again inside the room all the way around and this would effectively kill sounds (I know the trouble areas of windows, doors, etc) still exist but in essence, this would do?? Would a 4 inch wall i.e.

S/ROCK - STRUCTURE - S/ROCK - 4IN GAP - S/ROCK - STRUCTURE - S/ROCK

Say, measuring a foot wide in total do the job well??

Cheers and sorry to diversify a little!

Coco.

Administrator
Since: Apr 03, 2002


Dec 30, 2004 04:52 pm

Yep, thats it, the 4 inch gap makes a good bass trap, and windows, always have two panes of glass and make sure they are not parallel.

Hello!
Member
Since: Jan 12, 2004


Dec 30, 2004 05:04 pm

Sweet...good man. That is JUST what I wanted to hear....nice one.

Coco.

Member
Since: Dec 05, 2004


Dec 30, 2004 07:04 pm

This is what somone suggested...

"I dealt with this problem by venting the heat out 24/7 - all day - everyday.

First I made sure the ceiling has ventilation by installing a 600 CFM cylinder fan www.papstplc.com/ - series 6200 NTD - inside stove piping and made it turn a few times & put a dust filter & HVAC vent to kill the noise.

Cross Flow Fans (Barrel Fans) Series QG030 are starting to get me stoked.

Anyhow it MUST be vented outside. Think about it, Pizza shops which have 700 ~ 900% ovens are not hot inside – warm – maybe VERY warm – but not a thousand degrees. It’s ‘cause the hooded vents take all (most) of the heat out.

Negative pressure.

Since you’re venting the hot air caused by body temps, the computers, tubes, amps and when the wife barges in – you’ll create negative air pressure. You could cut vents in the bottom of the walls for cooler air input. Most garages have these vents already.

Portable AC

There ARE portable AC’s (on rollers) but they are noisy. The plus is they come with that funky venting (like on the back of a clothes dryer) but it’s wider. You COULD split some of that cool air and pump into the afore mentioned floor vents. But the portable has to go out side or in another WELL vented closet of some kind that has fresh air intake.

Vents Grills & Noise Baffling

Next look into HVAC baffling & Grilled Faceplates – you can also find some short ducting sections that’ll work for the output as well as input(s).

Even though I have a regular enclosed AC system (with only one funky vent shut off & now being ripped out) it works well enough that only on the hotter days do I have to turn on the AC."

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