Rob Stemple! Or any other tech gurus....
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Posted on May 24, 2010 09:16 pm
colonel_sanders
edit0r
Member Since: Aug 17, 2004
Tonight my work bench will be blessed (or cursed) with a beat up TAC 16-8-2 recording console. If ANYONE has any information, schematics, pages of manuals they could share, that would be very awesome. Its a 16-8 with 8 channel extension.
The only info I've found is at www.audiomaintenance.com/acatalog/manuals.html, but its 30 pounds for the manual!
Need to get this puppy to full capacity by June 21st for an album project :D.
Thanks in advance.
Arie
arie_vanderpoel AT hotmail.com
Btw Rob, do you know a guy called Kevin? I think he used to be the tour manager for stevie wonder... Something to do with stevie anyway.
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May 24, 2010 09:43 pm Sorry. I don't have any TAC schematics at the shop. I will check around and see if anyone else that I know does for ya.
Yes! Kevin is getting his shoes! :)
but, I do know a guy out in Pittsburgh that did do some road work with him. Kevin Madristin.
May 24, 2010 09:53 pm Thanks a million times over Rob, much appreciated.
Ah, its 'Kevin A' somebody... He was in my studio not long ago, producing an artist. Thought you might know him... Super nice guy.
May 24, 2010 09:55 pm Here is the reference that I was making.
Watch it! It's great!
May 24, 2010 10:00 pm lolololololololol
That was hilarious hahahahaha
May 25, 2010 04:06 am Just got the console! Wicked vibe.
Rob, whats the best way to clean switch contacts and pots?
May 25, 2010 06:17 am Finished testing channels 1-24 + bus 1-8. This is what I found...
Very noisy with faders and gain up. Buzzing, and loud hiss? I have read using a newer op-amp can reduce noise. Is this true? Also, will recapping power supply reduce noise?
Crackle when channels 17-24 tapped.
Bus 6 is dead.
When selecting more than one bus and monitoring only through master, makes signal quieter...
When engaged, channel 3 EQ makes Audio very quiet. Low pot very scratchy.
Cross talk is high.
Apart from that, hunky dory so far. Sleep time me thinks...
May 25, 2010 08:02 am Wondering about re-chipping as well... Is it worth it, maybe just in the master section? I've heard new age replacements have higher current requirements. Is there a simple way to add amps to the PSU?
Biggest concern at the moment is the noise floor, as I will be tracking lower volume acoustic songs. Will a recap/rechip lower this?
Me thinks I will order the manual... No use waiting around for schematics.
Mouser mouser mouser mouser.... Credit caaaaarrrrdddd :-).
May 25, 2010 11:25 am If your getting that much noise on the console, rebuilding the power supply is definitely going to help. And with all of the other problems that you are describing, I think that you have some capacitor issues.
Some of the caps may have dried out. Without the schematic, I don't know how they are isolating the resistor components on the board. But, typically there is usually two caps on each of the resistor type elements. Such as the fader, or potentiometer.
Now modern Op amps will help as well. You just need to make sure that you get a drop in replacement. There are some Op amps out there that will require some changes to the board in order to get them in. Such as the THAT 1512, and 1510. Great Op amps, but they need an extra resistor added to get gain to equal 100.
NE5532's are awesome as well. But, they two have a small issue with power. If the power is not 100% equal on both sides of the amp, then the power will view the amp as a dead short. And all 5532's will burn in the chain.
Start with the new capacitors. I usually get the next voltage up, and the next higher temp caps for pieces that I am working on. You don't need to do so, but, it doesn't hurt.
The other thing that I want to tell you is that Mouser is GREAT, but they rarely carry vintage parts. If you can't find it in Mouser, then check Digi Key, CE distributors, Vintage Electronics, and Four Star electronics.
May 25, 2010 04:47 pm Thanks Rob. Rebuild of power supply will commence today. I will see how much the noise drops before the recap. Any opinion of what capacitors? Recommended nichicon or panasonic or dubilier (original Amek? from audiomaintenance.com).
Also, what do you think about replacing tantalum/ceramic caps in the signal path with poly/film/mica, or just electrolytics?
I'd like to try some NE5532's, because I frequently hear good things about and from them. How would I make sure power is equal on both sides?
Thanks again Rob.
May 25, 2010 05:07 pm For brand names...... I could care less. I go with what is cheapest.
For isolation just go with your garden verity electrolytic. No need to go nuts with that. It's the audio chain that people get crazy about what type. For the audio path I go with film caps. They sound really nice in there.
Now, most boards have a positive and negative rail for the op amps. You should see the edge connector marked as to what the voltages are in that spot. Look for two blue body resistors there. They should be the metal power resistors. they look just like regular carbon film 1/4 watt resistors, it's just that the body is Blue instead of cream. Measure the power here with your DDM. And just make sure that the power is the same for the positive rail as it is for the negative rail.
The NE5532 is a real good drop in replacement Op amp. And should work well for you.
May 26, 2010 01:01 am Hey Rob, once again, whats the best way to clean switches and pots?
I purchased some contact cleaner/lube. Do I just spray it in and give it a toggle?
Thanks,
C_S
May 26, 2010 11:39 am For pots, a can of contact cleaner. I get the Craigs Deoxit. And you have to spray where the pot is open at. Usually the bottom where the the leads are. Spray and exercise the pot at the same time. And depending on how dirty it is, it could take more then several cans to clean the whole board.
For switches. If they don't have an opening, there is nothing that you can do. But, if there is an opening, then the same method will work for them as well.
May 28, 2010 05:15 am Geez these things need some $$$ huh. Thanks Rob, need to clean about 350 pots... :-D
Jul 02, 2010 04:14 am WORKING since last week lol.
More problems than it started with. Dodgy this and dodgy that, but no blown caps! So far I have 3 dead channels (can only use 22 at mixdown with radar anyway so don't mind) and a couple of EQ's that kill the channel when they're activated. Also the stereo mute button is DODGY, which is not good for the lol's when you're bouncing mixes. Doesn't play nicely with some gear (Neve portico gives some sort of ground loop when connected to line in? Really strange).
Anyway. Console sounds a lot cleaner and quieter now. Hum is gone and noise levels are tolerable.
Got my parts from Digikey, which was the cheapest (Fast and free shipping on orders over $100 I think) and RS components NZ (VERY SLOW).
All set up in its temporary home. Will post pics tomorrow. Thanks for the help Rob!
Jul 02, 2010 08:22 pm Very Nice!
I hope that your able to track down the last of the gremlins that you have floating about the board.
On the EQ, you may have a blown Op amp, or at least something sending the signal to ground. Start with the Op amp.
On the Stereo buttons, just replace them. Switches are just better off being replaced instead of trying to clean them.
On the Ground loop for the Line in, try a ground drain. And that is on side of the gear has the ground connected to the TRS, or 1/4" jack, the other does not. But, the wire is still there. This just gives some surface area for the ground to bleed down on.
