Problem with my Monster Power PowerCenter PRO 3500
Posted on Apr 04, 2010 07:52 pm
Member Since: Dec 19, 2009
Last night on a gig, my conditioner shut down, luckily on the last song of a set, but I haven't been able to get it to work again. It shows that it is sharing power with the devices plugged into it, but it isn't. I can hear an alarm type high frequency beep coming from the unit. I hope someone on here has had the same problem and has a quick solution for me. Its the weekend, so I can't call the customer support line. I need to use my PA again in 2 hrs. I have this feeling like I'm totally F***ed, but maybe I'll get lucky: PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!
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Apr 04, 2010 08:44 pm Ouch! dude that sucks. i really wish i could help you there. I have no idea though.
Apr 04, 2010 09:07 pm Sounds like one of the pieces may have a short in it.
Did you pull the pieces out one by one to see if the alarm stops?
Apr 05, 2010 02:20 am I didn't try one by one, but the conditioner still makes the beeping noise when nothing is plugged in at all. The peices all work fine when not plugged into the conditioner. I don't know if anyone has read the troubleshooting section of the manual for the PRO 3500, but it should be good for a laugh if you have the time. Very helpful................
pages 17 and 18
Apr 05, 2010 12:37 pm Well, was it "On"? :)
Believe it or not, you do need to have something like that in the manual. Way too many idiots out there.
One thing to check, is the capacitors on the outlet themselves. Behind the face plates, there should be a few capacitors back there to help with regulation.
I have seen them pop before, and give an alarm warning. If they are not blown, then you may need to send it in for service.
Feb 18, 2012 11:43 am Just joined the forum and I donít know if youíre still having problems with the Monster Cable Pro3500 but here is the solution.
Unless youíre a technician or engineer however I recommend treading lightly on this but here goes;
Unplug the unit.
Then, if you open the unit and check where the Line comes in to the circuit board you will find a shrink wrapped component on the board near the front of the unit directly behind where the dimmable lamp socket is. Take a hobby knife and VERY CAREFULLY remove the shrink wrap from the item in question. You will find two components, a MOV and a pico-fuse. The fuse is probably blown and you can check it out quickly by either measuring it with a continuity checker or just jumpering it with a clip lead (VERY CAREFULLY). Then turn on the unit and see if the back sockets come back to life. If it was the pico-fuse the alarm will stop and the back outlets will work.
Digi-Key part number is 317-1128-ND and it sells for about $.98 but you will pay a lot more for shipping than the cost of the fuses. Buy at least three of the fuses and keep them handy.
Hope this helps.
Jul 08, 2015 12:11 am Hello Internet! I am the original poster of this thread, but the email I had back then is no longer active so I had to register a new screen name.
ANYWAYS, i wasn't able to get power conditioner working in time for the gig in the original post. The unit was still under warranty, so I shipped it off and eventually it came back fully functional.
Now the cool part: years went by and the unit failed again. Same issue as in the original post. By this time, the warranty had expired, so I hit the Internet for help diagnosing the problem. I COMPLETELY FORGOT THAT I MADE THIS ORIGINAL POST! Imagine my suprise to not only stumble upon this thread, but to discover that Al Valente had come along and fingered the pico (thermal) fuse! He was right on the money. I ordered a pack of 5, desoldered the old one, soldered the new one, and it's fully functional again.
Jul 08, 2015 12:26 am For anyone attempting to do the same repair, you might want to take measures to keep the thermal fuse cool during the soldering process. They're pretty sensitive. I had to rig up a damp wash cloth with ice in it to complete the repair. Because of its sensitivity, you'll want to check the thermal fuse with a multi-meter after installation to make sure you didn't pop it while soldering.
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