Fender Champ Amp model 5F1
Home > Home Recording Forum > Gear Gab > Fender Champ Amp model 5F1
Posted on May 17, 2008 03:41 pm
raythemetalhead
Member Since: Oct 11, 2006
Hello Everyone,
I am looking for any info.
I got this amp about 20 years ago for free.
Back then it smelled like it was going to blow up whenever it was turned on.
So the other night i find it and mess around with it a bit.
The 12AX7 tube had a cover around it that broke off when i touched it.
Well now the thing works, sounds great, and doesnt smell or get really hot.
Long story short, I knew nothing about this amp model until last night when i got online.
These things are going for 1000 bucks on Ebay.
I am never going to sell it, i plan to use/enjoy it.
Are there any tips for keeping it working?
It is all original.
The top is sorta rusty and the black tolex is dirty.
I would like to clean it up.
I attached pictures of it on my profile.
Thanks in advance
[ Back to Top ]
Dematrixhttp://www.reverbnation.com/2ndgMember
Since: Nov 27, 2007
May 17, 2008 09:10 pm tubes arent cheap but it will no doubt need newies. you say you broke off a cover, i didnt notice it, did you mean the glass of the tube?
looks like a pearler though. maybe lami the schematics to keep em in good order.
or even photocopy em and keep the originals original.
any sorta lino cleaner should clean up the amp, though with the aluminium top i would be careful not to clean over the label bits (vol etc) they might rub off.
pjkPrince CZAR-mingMember
Since: Apr 08, 2004
May 18, 2008 08:57 am Here's a fender page:
www.ampwares.com/ffg/champ_narrow.html
and the site page:
www.ampwares.com/ffg
Looks like you've got a 1964 champ. Nice. The 5F1 shows only 64 had the black tolex.
If the thing is working, then don't worry about it. Have fun.
But there's some things that can affect it's behavior:
Old carbon comp resistors can drift, making things go somewhat out of whack. These can be replaced pretty easily, if you can solder and know how not to kill yourself with tube amps.
The electrolytic caps can go bad, and often do, but not always. These can be replaced too, with soldering and electrical know-how.
There's internet pages dedicated to this type of thing, but be aware that there are lethal voltages inside, that can stay active long after the amp is unplugged.
Oh yeah, I'm not sure about that cord, the zip cord, if it's original. It may be replaced, but I'm not sure. Champs may have came with that type cord, but i'm not sure.
If it has been replaced, and even it it hasn't, you may want to put on a grounded plug. This will remove possible ZAPPS in the future, if certain conditions arise. I can't remember them at the moment, but I know quite often guys that get 'players' amps will put on a 3 prong right away, so as to not zap themselves or others.
If you're not going to keep it for $$$ or investment, and actually play it, then i'd swap out the cord.
Yeah, tubes may be in order, but again, if it's playing nice, have fun. You may want to get a new set of tubes, just to see if it will improve the tone (probably will). I've picked up some JJ/Tesla for Eurotubes for my '67 Super Reverb, that I like much. Not too spendy, and nice. Should be pretty cheap to re-tube a champ, like 40$ or so.
You won't have to re-bias the champ either, as the 6v6 and 12ax7 are cathode biased, so resisters set the bias, not a potentiometer.
The recifier tube 5y3 is just for making DC from AC, so bias not apply. No signal goes through this tube.
May 18, 2008 11:49 am I work on many Fender tube amps. PJK is absolutely correct on the information that he gave.
I just wanted to give you a web site that has all of the Fender parts that you need.
www.tubesandmore.com/
Antique Electronic Supply
They are the official Fender supplier for non-service centers, dealers, for the US.
One suggestion. When buying output tubes, make sure that you purchase a matched pair. Just tell the salesman from Antique Electronic Supply that is what you want.
It cost a small amount more for matching. But, it is necessary.
May 18, 2008 12:06 pm On another note. The cover that went over the 12AX7.
That is for shielding from RFI.
Not 100% necessary. Unless you do a lot of out door shows.
May 18, 2008 01:39 pm Thanks for all the info ! ! ! ! !
You guys helped me a bunch.
The cord is the original still.
So are the tubes.
This belonged to a buddys older brother who got it in the 60s, played for a few months then gave up.
When their Mom passed away they were throwing things out and he thought maybe i would have a use for it.
It has sat in my attic for about 20 years collecting dust.
So basically it has only a few hours of use on it after 40 odd years.
I cant believe how LOUD the thing gets.
Thanks again.
Noize2uCzar of MidiAdministrator
Since: Apr 04, 2002
May 18, 2008 09:38 pm Ya, I owned a 68 version of that amp and yes it was loud indeed. The only bit I see that I would start with is the 12AX7 tube as it does look like it got hot at one time. They do burn hot but it is worth getting one to have in case.
But indeed, cleaning the panel is going to be the tuff part without damaging the original lettering, or what is left of it. I myself would opt for either a factory original part, which I believe can be gotten from the place Rob posted or Fender.
But hell ya, killer little amps for sure.
pjkPrince CZAR-mingMember
Since: Apr 08, 2004
May 19, 2008 11:02 am Quote:
When buying output tubes, make sure that you purchase a matched pair.
er, there's only one output tube. and the biasing is done via cathode resister, so there's no 'matching' to do (for either facet).
I guess you could get two, just to have an extra that is mostly identical to the one you're using, but it's not really necessary.
May 19, 2008 11:42 am Oops! My mistake. I was looking at the wrong schematic.
I am also so use to working on a push pull amp. Forgot that there are single tube models.
TallChapAnswer:On a good day, lipstick.Member
Since: Jun 24, 2004
May 19, 2008 04:35 pm Nice one. This little amps are classic. Wish I could afford one. I just have the little Epiphone Junior. Similar principle, but not a Champ.
